Installation
This page is meant to give you a general idea of the steps involved in using TI-ProBoard. You can also download a PDF of the INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, watch a trade show video about how to install TI-ProBoard or refer back to the video on the Home page.
![]() |
![]() |
![]()
|
1. ASSESS DECK STRUCTURE
Recommended joist spacing is 16" on centers. Make sure the structure has the proper slope as recommended by the Tile Council of North America's 45 Edition Handbook Section F103-07 and F10407. Water has to drain off the surface so the deck must slope away from the house at a rate of 1/4" per running foot. The TI-ProBoard will be directly placed on the exposed joist structure. If refurbishing an old deck, remove the existing flooring and add joist hangers where necessary.
2. PLACE FIRST BOARDS
Place the boards perpendicular to the joists. The first board must be straight; a square and a chalk line is recommended. If you have to use a partial board then start at the outside edge and work towards the house. Use a wet saw or Skil saw with a masonry blade to cut the boards and stagger the joints when you place them.
3. SECURE EACH BOARD
Attach the boards using a fastener specially manufactured by Tile DIY LLC. This screw has a coating to resist pressure-treated wood chemicals and has a large 1/2" pan flat head. Each board will have two screws at each joist it crosses.
4. CLIP THE BOARDS TOGETHER
As you work from the starting point, each successive board will be clipped into the previous board. Tap together using a rubber mallet, creating a uniform seal. Not clipping the boards fully together could result in the tiles being uneven or detaching from the subsurface. Place a screw behind the grooved edge of a clip to insure that the two boards lock together.
5. REPEAT THE PROCESS
Repeat the process until the deck structure is complete. During installation of tile air temperature should not be below 40°F and not above 95°F.
6. FILL THE CHANNELS
Completely fill the channels of the TI-ProBoard with mortar designed to work in a freeze/thaw environment (see Related Products). A 60 lb bag of mortar mix will cover approximately 25 square feet. Screed the mortar so that it is flush with the top of the ribs. A small amount of water may be added to the mix to make it easier to work it between the ribs. Let the mortar dry according to the manufacturer's specifications. Scrape and sweep the surface to remove any loose material and dust.
7. APPLY WATERPROOFING (IF NEEDED)
If the structure is over an area which needs to be kept dry apply a waterproof membrane after the underlayment has dried. If work should be stopped at any time due to weather, cover the deck to prevent any moisture from reaching the surface.
8. LAY OUT TILE
It is a good idea to lay out some of the tile without the adhesive, using spacers. This dry run allows you to pre-cut the tile and double-check the amount of tile you will need for your application.
9. APPLY THINSET & EDGING
Mix and apply the thinset according to manufacturers' recommendations. Use thin set which is latex fortified to ANSI standard 118.4 or better. Since it is exposed to the elements the deck's edge should be finished with an edging strip like TILE DIY's TI-EDGING. Make sure to align the edging strip correctly along the entire length. With Ti-Edging the tile will be set directly against the strip. You will not set an outside edge groutline. Enough thinset should be troweled out to allow it to push up through the edging's holes.
10. SET TILE & GROUT
Thin set coverage on the tile should not be less than 98% and placing some on the back of each tile will give you 100% coverage. The tile used should be porcelain with a coefficient of friction that follow the ADA guidlines Section A 4.5.1. Place the tile and allow to dry the specified time. Make sure to use the proper grout for your environment's condition. Allow the grout to cure and set and then clean. Enjoy!


